A Collector’s Guide to Vintage Cartier Watches

Cartier is often called ‘The Jeweler of Kings,’ but for watch collectors, they are the ‘King of Shapes.’ While other brands spent the 20th century perfecting the round watch, Cartier was busy breaking the mold with rectangular, square, and even ‘crashed’ silhouettes.

The Holy Trinity of Cartier Design

• The Cartier Tank: Inspired by the top-down view of a WWI Renault tank, this is the most famous rectangular watch in the world. Collectors look for the Tank Louis Cartier (the gold standard) and the Tank Basculante (the flipping case).

• The Cartier Santos: Born from a 1904 request by aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, this was one of the first-ever wristwatches for men. Its industrial exposed screws and square case make it a favorite for those who want a blend of sport and dress.

• Must de Cartier: In the 1970s, Cartier changed the game by introducing the ‘Must’ line—vibrant dials in Bordeaux, Blue, and Onyx set in gold-plated ‘vermeil’ cases. These are currently some of the most sought-after entry points into vintage luxury.

Ken’s Note on Authenticity

Cartier is one of the most imitated brands in the world. When we inspect a vintage piece, we look for the ‘Secret Signature’—the tiny ‘Cartier’ text hidden within the Roman numerals at 7 or 10 o’clock. We also pay close attention to the Sapphire Cabochon crown and the quality of the ‘Guilloché’ dial work. Every Cartier in our shop is guaranteed genuine, giving you the peace of mind that your investment is as real as its history.