The Royal Oak and Beyond: A Guide to Collecting Vintage Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet is defined by its willingness to take risks. While their neighbors in the Vallée de Joux focused on classicism, AP focused on the future. At Wanna Buy A Watch?, we curate pieces that represent the most pivotal moments in the brand’s history.

The Legend: The Royal Oak

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is the most influential luxury sports watch ever created. Designed by Gérald Genta in a single night, its octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet were revolutionary in 1972.

• The ‘Jumbo’: Collectors seek the ultra-thin 39mm models (Ref. 5402) for their historical weight.

• Neo-Vintage Sizes: In 2026, the 33mm and 36mm Royal Oaks (like the Ref. 14790) have become high-demand favorites for their versatility and classic proportions.

• Tantalum and Gold: We look for rare “two-tone” executions in steel and tantalum or 18K gold that highlight AP’s mastery of mixed metals.

The “Quiet” Icons: AP Dress Watches

Before the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet was famous for producing some of the thinnest, most elegant dress watches in the world. Collectors today are rediscovering 1950s-1980s 18K gold Tuxedo watches and manual-wind pieces that offer incredible value and sophistication compared to the more aggressive sports models.

Note on “The Tribute to Steel”

“What people often forget is that when the Royal Oak launched, it was priced higher than many gold watches of the time. It was a ‘tribute to steel’ and to the craftsmanship of the finish. When you hold a vintage AP, look at the ‘Tapisserie’ dial and the way the light catches the bevels of the case. It’s not just a watch; it’s a sculpture. We take great care to ensure the cases of our vintage APs haven’t been over-polished, preserving those sharp, architectural lines that make the brand legendary.”