VINTAGE WATCHES AND JEWELRY.

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Bring a Loupe

A BREITLING NAVITIMER REF. 806 AOPA, A DE BETHUNE DB28 TITANIUM, AND A TUDOR SUBMARINER REF. 7928

This week’s round-up of vintage watches from around the world.

Isaac Wingold-Orginal Source

This week’s roundup is a bit of a longer read than usual, but fear not, we’ve got the goods as always. All bases are covered, with exotic independent creations like a titanium DB28 from De Bethune, obscure watches like an early automatic from a brand you’ve almost certainly never heard of, a range of compelling pieces from the Wilsdorf-founded brands, and the coolest damn chronograph you’ve seen in a while all making appearances. We won’t waste time – let’s get into this week’s supersized Bring A Loupe.

1984 Rolex Datejust Ref. 16018 In 18k Yellow Gold

While we could wax poetic all day about Rolex’s countless notable achievements, associations, and iconic models, just consider this – Rolex pioneered tahe self-changing date complication, and arguably changed the future of watch design, with the release of the Datejust. This is nnothing to scoff at, regardless of your take on the watchmaking behemoth.

What we’ve got here is a simple Datejust, and a rather sharp one at that, which left the factory in 1984. I find vintage Datejusts to still be largely undervalued watches in general, but this is no ordinary spec example, and that’s evident in the pricing. This supremely clean ref. 16018 has thick lugs, along with a perfect and uncommon stark white dial, which looks terrific against the 36mm case made of warm 18k yellow gold. It’s also currently fitted with a non-cyclops sapphire crystal, which many will like, as it shows off the dial more, and can also make the watch feel ever so slightly larger on the wrist. Steel and two-tone Datejusts of this era came fitted with acrylic crystals, but the upgrade to sapphire came early for those who sprung for the gold-cased variants.

Overall, it’s a genuinely clean watch, that one could definitely have some fun dressing up with a number of strap combinations. There are few more versatile watches than those with 36mm Oyster cases, and this just so happens to be one of the nicest I’ve seen in a while.

Wanna Buy A Watch in Los Angeles has this example fo the ref. 16018 listed for $9,500. Click here for the full scoop.

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Rolex Serial Numbers and Clasp Codes

Rolex Serial Numbers

Rolex Production Year Serial Number
2010 G
2009 V
2008 M OR V
2007 M OR Z
2006 D OR Z
2005 D
2005 F
2004 F
2003 F
2002 Y
2001 K OR Y
2000 K,000,001
2000 P,000,001
1999 A,000,001
1998 U,932,144
1997 U,000,001
1996 T,000,001
1995 W,000,001
1994 S,860,880
1993 S,000,001
1992 C,000,001
1991 N,000,001
1991 X,000,001
1990 E,000,001
1989 L,980,000
1988 R,598,200
1987 R,000,001
1987 9,400,000
1986 8,900,000
1985 8,614,000
1984 8,070,022
1983 7,400,000
1982 7,100,000
1981 6,520,870
1980 6,434,000
1979 5,737,030
1978 5,000,000
1977 5,008,000
1976 4,115,299
1975 3,862,196
1974 3,567,927
1973 3,200,268
1972 2,890,459
1971 2,589,295
1970 2,241,882
1969 1,900,000
1968 1,752,000
1967 1,538,435
1966 1,200,000
1965 1,100,000
1964 1,008,889
1963 824,000
1962 744,000
1961 643,153
1960 516,000
1959 399,453
1958 328,000
1957 224,000
1956 133,061
1955 97,000
1954 23,000
1953 855,726
1952 726,639
1951 709,249
1950
1949
1948 628,840
1947 529,163
1946 367,946
1945 302,459
1944 269,561
1943 230,878
1942 143,509
1941 106,047
1940 99,775
1939 71,224
1938 43,739
1937 40,920
1936 36,856
1935 34,336
1934 30,823
1933 29,562
1932 29,132
1931
1930 23,186
1929
1928 23,969
1927 20,190
1926 00,001
 

Rolex Clasp Codes

Bracelet CodeYear
A or VA1976
B or VB1977
C or VC1978
D or VD1979
E or VE1980
F or VF1981
G1982
H1983
I1984
J1985
K1986
L1987
M1988
N1989
O1990
P1991
Q1992
R1993
S1994
T or W1995
V1996
Z1997
U1998
X1999
AB2000
DE2001
DT2002
AD2003
CL2004
MA2005
OP2006
EO2007
PJ2008
LT2009
RS2010
RANDOM201+